Battle of the seasons: living traditions at the carnival in the Innsbruck region

Updated on 17.01.2023

When the whole village is on its feet from dawn, when unusual characters are up to mischief in the streets, when bells and music ring out from everywhere - then it's carnival time in the Innsbruck region. The associated performances never cease to amaze, with the big parades, which are usually only held every few years, being one of the absolute highlights. This February, for example, the Muller parade will once again take place in Rum, while in Axams the Wampeler parade through the village. A special spectacle is also organised in Patsch to drive out the winter. It's definitely worth a visit - it's not for nothing that these three customs are part of UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage.

Wild figures, elaborately carved wooden masks - known locally as "larvae" - colourful costumes, all kinds of dances and lots of bell ringing, noise and music: these are the most important ingredients for carnival in the Innsbruck region. Performances can be marvelled at every year during the carnival season in many communities around the Tyrolean capital, and large, elaborately staged parades also take place at regular intervals. The whole village is on its feet and the streets are populated by numerous witches, bears, Tuxers, Zottlers, Wampelers and other mystical creatures, who delight locals and guests alike with their colourful goings-on.

Many of these carnival customs have a long history, some of which date back centuries. The knowledge and secrets surrounding the figures, their costumes and gestures are passed down from generation to generation, although certain aspects - such as certain details of the costumes - differ from village to village. But regardless of whether they are Muller or Matschgerer, Wampeler or Schellenschlagerinnen, Schleicher or Türggeler: The associated performances and parades are not only a living tradition, but also a great spectacle that you should definitely see at least once. There is an opportunity to do so in February, when the Muller in Rum, the Wampeler in Axams and the Schellenschlagerinnen in Patsch, among others, are out and about. All three customs are part of UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage.

Rum Muller parade: when winter roams the streets

As with many other carnival customs, the Muller parade in Rum - a village just a few minutes from Innsbruck - is all about the battle of spring against winter. Accordingly, the main characters of the Rum Muller are assigned to the seasons: The half-white stands for spring, the Melcher for summer, the Spiegeltuxer for midsummer, the Zaggeler for autumn and the Zottler for winter. Each figure has its own movements and special features, with the Spiegeltuxer, with his opulent headdress weighing up to ten kilograms, being the most striking. The procession in Rum is strictly regulated: First come the harbingers, including witches and so-called Klötzler, followed by the figures of the seasons. The highlight of the event is when a Zottler drops backwards onto the ground to form the so-called "frog", a dancing figure: if a half-white person then climbs on top of him, winter is defeated and spring can come.

The Rumer Mullerumzug will take place on 12 February 2023.

Axamer Wampelerreiten: a battle with big bellies

The annual Wampelerreiten in Axams is certainly one of the rougher carnival customs in Tyrol. This is primarily due to its namesake, the pot-bellied Wampeler, and the riders. The latter try to throw the former onto their backs. And despite precisely defined rules - for example, the Wampeler may only be attacked from behind and fend off attacks from the front with their stick - this wrestling match, which symbolises the conflict between spring and winter, is usually quite violent. The Wampeler, whose white shirts are stuffed with hay, have to survive a total of two rounds through the village - preferably without being double-crossed by the riders. The best Wampeler are therefore those whose backs have remained as clean as possible at the end. This year, the Wampelerreitern takes place as part of the big carnival parade, which is held every four years. Around 400 active participants take part, and in addition to Wampelers and riders, figures such as Tuxer, Flitschiler and Buijazzln can also be seen.

The big carnival parade with Wampelerreiten will take place in Axams on 19 February 2023.

Patscher Schellenschlagerinnen: the bells never sound more beautiful

The Schellenschlager in Patsch is an exception in some respects: women play the leading role here - and that is still a rarity in the otherwise male-dominated Tyrolean carnival. The beginnings of the Patscher Schellenschlagerinnen date back to 1958: at that time, the men of the village apparently could not bring themselves to practise the custom of beating bells, which is also common in other areas. So the women decided without further ado to step in and take matters, or rather the bells, into their own hands to declare war on winter. And so, every year on "Nonsensical Thursday" - the last Thursday before Ash Wednesday - Patsch women and girls parade through the village with their beautiful larvae and costumes and bells carried behind their backs. They are accompanied by a witch, who sets the beat, and accordion players, who play after the so-called "Ausschellen" (the simultaneous ringing of bells by all participants) to dance with the spectators.

The Patscher Schellenschlagerinnen can be seen and heard on 16 February 2023.

Tip: environmentally friendly and relaxed with public transport in and through the region

If you want to avoid travelling by car to the many carnival events around Innsbruck, the train is the best way to get there. What's more, in addition to the tried-and-tested Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) connections, the WESTbahn has also recently made a stop in the Tyrolean capital: it runs three times a day between Vienna and Innsbruck. This makes the environmentally friendly journey to the urban Alpine region of Innsbruck even easier than before. And you can also get around easily by train, bus and tram - especially with the Welcome Card guest card: available free of charge from partner businesses for stays of two nights or more, it includes use of all public transport in the region. So if you want to enjoy the colourful carnival hustle and bustle in the Innsbruck region without a care in the world, you can simply leave your own four wheels at home with a clear conscience.

About Innsbruck Tourismus

Innsbruck Tourismus is the official destination management organisation of the Innsbruck region, which extends from the Tyrolean capital to 40 towns and villages in the surrounding area - from the Inntal valley to the Mieminger Plateau via Kühtai to the Sellraintal valley. With almost 3.5 million overnight stays per year (as of 2019), the Innsbruck region is one of the largest tourism institutions in Austria and is a unique symbiosis of vibrant urban space and fascinating Alpine mountains. Diverse city flair and sightseeing are just a breath away from the next cycling or hiking tour, the next skiing or winter hiking experience. The free Welcome Card guest card is the key to the region's boundless diversity: with free use of public transport, numerous highlights can be experienced sustainably and conveniently up and down the mountain. For the approximately 90 employees, the guest is at the centre of their thoughts and actions. Through their enthusiasm for the alpine-urban area, they convey to their guests what their own hearts beat for and thus create unforgettable holiday experiences in harmony with people and nature time and time again. With a total of 12 tourism information centres, Innsbruck Tourism is close to its guests, right in the middle of the action and with its finger on the pulse - a hub for authentic stories and personal impressions of local characters, which can be found on the popular blog and social channels under #myinnsbruck.